Member #2 of the Cold Soup Group: Meet Vichyssoise

The summer weather rages on! It’s been another warm week, I gotta say that I’m still loving our new a/c. I’m a much happier camper in this climate-controlled house, which means I’m more motivated to do just about everything, especially get back into the kitchen.

I had such a great response to the previous post about gazpacho that I thought I’d take a look at another tried-and-true classic cold soup. This one’s a little less seasonal, but then again, I don’t know that it really belongs to any season. If you haven’t already guessed (or read the title or looked at the pictures) I’m tallmbout the American continental classic: Vichyssoise.

American, you say? With a name like that? Yes indeed, while it WAS created by a French chef, the dish was birthed in America. In 1917 a French chef by the name of Louis Diat came up with the dish, basically a refined, chilled version of potage Parmentier. He put it on the menu at the Ritz Carleton, and the rest, as they say, is history.

I have very fond memories of this soup, making it in various kitchens in the early days of my career. I share a nostalgic love for it with the late, great Anthony Bourdain. He first recalls trying the dish on an ocean liner as a young boy. Spellbound by the fact the soup was cold and delicious in a way that was new to his young palate, he had this to say on the subject:

“Vichyssoise,” came the reply, a word that to this day – even though it’s now a tired old warhorse of a menu selection and one I’ve prepared thousands of times – still has a magical ring to it. I remember everything about the experience: the way our waiter ladled it from a silver tureen into my bowl; the crunch of the tiny chopped chives he spooned on as garnish; the rich, creamy taste of leek and potato; the pleasurable shock, the surprise that it was cold.

Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential, 2000

Tony’s experience with Vichyssoise was one of the first that set him down a path of cooking and appreciating the world of food. While my own introduction to the dish was well after I’d had my palate awakened by other wonderful dishes, I always remember that passage fondly. It makes me smile every time I come across a cold potato and leek soup.

Since this is a classic dish, I thought we’d look at a classic technique, too. The Bouquet Garni. Take the dark green part of a leek, wash it well, and tie it up with some Italian parsley, thyme, bay leaves and black peppercorns using some kitchen twine. This imparts gentle flavour to the soup, and gives you the ability to easily fish it out later, so it doesn’t impact the final texture.

This dish is simple. Cook your ingredients gently, purée the soup as finely as you can, strain and chill. You’re looking to create the texture of luxury from humble, everyday ingredients.

Vichyssoise

Ingredients:

• 60g butter
• 1 medium white onion, peeled and thinly sliced
• 500g leeks, white and light green parts only, washed well and sliced thinly
• 500g Yukon gold potato, peeled and sliced thinly, covered with cold water
• 1 large, dark green leek top, washed well
• 4-5 sprigs Italian parsley
• 3-4 sprigs thyme
• 1-2 bay leaves, fresh if possible
• 10-12 whole black peppercorns
• 250ml 2% milk
• 250ml 35% cream
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Crème fraîche, optional garnish
• 1 small bunch chives, chopped into thin rings, optional garnish

Method:

1. In a large, heavy bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat, melt the butter.
2. Once the butter is melted and foamy, add the onion and leeks. Stir to combine, and sweat the vegetables gently for 10-15 minutes. You don’t want any colour on the vegetables, if you see any browning, lower the heat.
3. Once the vegetables are softened, drain the potatoes and add them to the pot, stirring to combine. Add enough water to just cover all the contents by an inch or two and raise the heat to high.
4. As you wait for the pot to boil, assemble your bouquet garni by wrapping the green of the leek around the parsley, thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns. Tie it together with two pieces of kitchen twine tightly so that nothing escapes.
5. Bring the pot to the boil over high heat. Once it boils, add the bouquet garni, add a large pinch of salt, reduce the heat to medium and simmer gently for 25-30 minutes. No vigorous boil, just a nice gentle simmer. You want the potatoes to be fully cooked
6. Once everything is well cooked, remove and discard the bouquet garni. Blend the soup well, either in batches in a high-powered blender or with an immersion blender. Strain the blended soup through a fine mesh strainer into a clean container.
7. Whisk in the milk and cream. Let the soup fully cool to room temperature and then refrigerate to cool completely, minimum 2 hours. If you divide the soup into smaller containers, it will cool quicker.
8. Once fully chilled, taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Ladle the soup into chilled bowls and garnish with a drizzle of 35% cream, a dollop of crème fraîche and some finely chopped chives. Serve immediately.

I mean, if it’s good enough for me and Tony Bourdain, it’s good enough for you, amirite? Seriously though, this old classic is due for a comeback. You’d be hard-pressed to find it on a menu anywhere these days, so you’ll just have to make it for yourself. Who knows, perhaps Vichyssoise will be the first step on your own journey of culinary awakening?

If you try this recipe, let me know how it goes for you! Shoot me an email or leave a comment below!