God Damn! It’s the Croque-Madame
Sometimes you need a big lunch. Sometimes you need a lunch with the power of a decadent restaurant dinner, or a Sunday brunch. You want a sandwich, but not just any ordinary old bullshit sandwich. Well, once again, I’m here to save the damn day.
I make no bones about my love for sandwiches. I can (and have) wax poetic about a perfect BLT. A good grilled cheese sends me right back to childhood. As a card-carrying member of the tribe, I am awestruck when confronted with a sandwich of rye bread, Montreal smoked meat and mustard. What could top those?
If you know a thing or two about French bistro cuisine, you’ve heard of the croque-monsieur. It is, despite the fancy name, a simple and divine creation. A grilled ham and Swiss cheese sandwich. But, we’re not talking about a croque-monsieur. We’re talking about a croque-madame.
The croque-madame is a powered-up, over-the-top evolution of the croque-monsieur. The bones are the same, still a grilled ham and Swiss cheese sandwich. Which gets draped in a layer of silky smooth béchamel (or Mornay, we’ll get to that) and topped with a delightful sunny-side up egg and some chives. Add some potato chips or fries, and you have a lunch whose power level is well over 9000.
This is a rich dish, no doubt. A lot of the time you’ll see folks tell you to make a Mornay, or cheese sauce to drizzle over the sandwich. I think this is just a hair too excessive. I like to make a light béchamel, with just enough body to cling to the sandwich, and flavour it judiciously with salt, pepper and nutmeg. If you want that extra hit though, just whisk your shredded cheese of choice into the sauce as it simmers and thickens. Like they say “Then you add cheese, and it’s a Mornay.”
There’s nothing overly difficult about this dish, which is surprising considering how rich and impressive it is. It’s an amazing lunch, a light(er) dinner, and since it has an egg on it, here in the western world it’s technically breakfast. You can indulge in this classic any time of day.
The recipe that follows makes enough sauce for several sandwiches, but if you only want one, the béchamel will keep in the refrigerator, tightly sealed for 3-4 days.
Croque-Madame
Ingredients:
For the Béchamel
- 25g butter
- 25g all-purpose flour
- 250-300 mL 2% milk
- Kosher salt, to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- Nutmeg, freshly grated if possible, to taste
For the sandwich
- 2 slices of brioche or challah
- 2 slices of Emmental, Gruyere or Comté cheese
- 2 thin slices of black forest ham
- Butter, as needed
- 1 egg
- Kosher salt, to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 1 small bunch of chives, chopped into tiny rings
- Potato chips of your choice (*optional garnish, I used All-Dressed Ruffles because YOLO*)
Method:
- Make the béchamel. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter until it foams. Whisk in the flour and continue to whisk for 1-2 minutes after combined to form a roux. Keep whisking until the smell of raw flour dissipates.
- Slowly whisk in the milk, pouring in a slow, steady stream, until it is all incorporated. Whisk the sauce often as it comes to a simmer. It will thicken as it simmers, but don’t let the bottom scorch. If you wanted to make a Mornay, you’d add your shredded cheese now.
- Season the sauce to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Transfer the pot to a back burner over the lowest heat to keep warm. Whisk it every minute or so to ensure it doesn’t stick or scorch.
- Assemble the sandwich. On one slice of bread place one slice of cheese. Fold the slices of ham and place them atop the cheese. Place the other slice of cheese on top of the ham and cover with the last piece of bread. Did I really need to write that out?
- In a medium sauté pan or skillet, over medium heat, melt a knob of butter. Once the butter foams, place the sandwich in the pan and cook until the bottom is golden-brown. Flip and repeat.
- Meanwhile, in another small sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, melt another knob of butter. Once it foams, crack the egg into the pan and cook until the whites are well set.
- Blot the sandwich on paper towel if you wish, then slice diagonally and place on a plate. Pour the béchamel over the sandwich, then top with the fried egg. Sprinkle the chives over the sauced sandwich and season with additional salt and pepper, if desired. Artfully arrange the chips on the plate. Or whatever.
That’s it, grab a fork and knife, because you’re done. I hope you don’t have much to do after you eat this, because you’re not going to do it well, that’s for sure. This is one of those lunches that you reward yourself for finishing with a midday nap.
I really hope you guys try this one out. Let me know in the comments or send an email. This dish is super nostalgic for me and I’ve been excited to share it for days now. I hope you enjoy it. Now, however, it’s naptime.
